In the year of 1997 Margiela used an old Stockman tailor’s dummy as the source of inspiration for two consecutive semi-couture collections. He chose to predominately focus on the array of elements that drew attention to the production process and its consequent stages. For example, the sections of a toile were permanently pinned to the bust as part of a jacket. Other jackets assumed a masculine shoulder line, with the inside of the prototype reinstated with a second structure and with a feminine shoulder line. Disregarding the sleeves exposed both the masculine and the feminine tailoring. The inside became the outside as shoulder pads were occasionally placed on the exterior of the garment or used as a disconnected accessory. Another feature in the collection/s was a label that read, “Toile of a garment after its first fitting: all rectification marks and faults remain apparent”.
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