CUTTING / NOT CUTTING

Certain binary oppositions inform general views of fashion in a contemporary setting, and it is natural for one to be valued more in both the eyes of the consumer and the designer. We emphasise the final product over the process of its creation, what the garment looks like from the exterior rather than it’s interior. We value the integral structure over the decoration, and often, a garment’s form over its specific function. Deconstruction is concerned with ‘unpicking’ these traditional, uneven binaries and elevating the silent partner ( R, Gasché. 1987. p 3-4)

Fashion design is essentially about construction. We must first make in order to take apart. However, I do not believe the structure of the garment is more important than the process of getting there. A ‘finished’ construction is finite, it reaches a point where it can go no further, and immediately begins to degrade. The process continuing long after the garment is finished. Construction does not last forever, and I believe all fashion naturally deconstructs itself.

In order to elevate the process of creation rather than the final product, I am researching forms of upsetting the traditional design process, and filming the results as party of my developmental journal. As designers, we tend to accept that we must first lay out our patterns, cut our fabric, pin the pieces and sew them together.

This film explores both the traditional sewing process, and also what is created if this is deconstructed. In the latter half of the video, I construct a ‘jacket’ where the pattern has been traced onto calico, but not cut. The pieces are sewn together until I can get no further.

CUTTING FABRIC / NOT CUTTING from esther gauntlett on Vimeo.</p

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