Friday morning our small(ish) group took a trek down to NGVI to see Manstyle and Roger, the resident curator of textiles and fashion (I think).
The exhibition was split between NGVI and the Ian Potter centre, but showcased how menswear, and tailoring in particular has evolved over the past century.
Recycled jacket with some very awesome buttons.
A beautiful men’s tunic aka dress. The silhouette should invoke something more feminine, but I think it does quite the opposite. Tunic or dress? what’s in a name? haha. For my collection I will be looking at silhouettes, the manipulation of menswear into a female silhouette in particular. What infers a womanly figure, and how do you use that in menswear to emphasise masculinity. I’m sure there is a classy way of doing that.
Then we scuttled down to see Roger down in the archives. The wonderful wonderful archives.
Looking closely at these 100 year old garments we could see how tailoring has evolved to allow more freedom of movement under the arm pit, and to create more shape in the torso.
Roger explained how this Mugler jacket is made from a specially woven worsted wool yarn to create a spongey effect. I wanted to touch this so bad, but alas, we didn’t have gloves. The lapel collar was asymmetrical, and the sleeves were inset with special design lines. Who says jackets have to be symmetrical?
CDG jacket with a special canvas as the main fabric. Scratchy and wonderfully textured, and the binding on the outside.
And this wonderful Jacket, can anyone recognize the brand? haha.
Denise said that had they have made a jacket like this today, she wouldn’t have used so many clashing textiles.
Lots of design ideas to think about now after this, and also after visiting the Ian Potter centre as well.