Deconstruction Fashion ~ anti-Fashion

(Emily)

In the late 1960s, “deconstructionism” was the brainchild of French philosopher Jacques Derrida who named the process of breaking down established forms. The term is normally applied to text but also describes breaking down conventions and normal boundaries. His idea was to contradict, challenge and destabilise the universal truth.

His work is also largely referred as explicit influence in architecture (in the form of deconstructivism), music and arts, with many artists and art critics, continually referring explicitly his influence on their work

His work is also largely referred as explicit influence in architecture (in the form of deconstructivism), music and arts, with many artists and art critics, continually referring explicitly his influence on their work

So, what is deconstruction fashion? It’s a fashion item that looks unfinished and the designer is still in the midst of experimenting with the product. Normally, the fashion item has exposed seams, raw edges, displacement of certain component and some sort of treatment to make it look distressed. Deconstruction fashion is meant to challenge the traditional perception of beauty.

At the same time, it aims to destabilise fashion with impeccable garment finishing.

In “Deconstruction Fashion: The Making of Unfinished, Decomposing and Re-Assembled Clothes,” Alison Gill uses the idea of decontruction borrowed from Jacques Derrida philosophy.

Gill suggests the fashion style of deconstruction, called “Le Destroy,” by the French, is an intentional effort at unfinished forms that are coming apart, recycled or transparent. Rei Kawakubo, Karl Lagerfeld, Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester and Dries Van Noten are the designers in this category. The basis of all decontructioned clothing is aestheticized non-functionality that amounts to anti-fashion.

In philosophy, deconstruction reveals the instability of meaning of words and phrases. The deconstuction of style was first observed in communication design in the Cranbrook Acadmey. A 1988 exhibition at MOMA about deconstructivist architecture brought the term into larger consciousness. Gill suggests that Martin Margiela is an example of deconstruction architecture of the body. His clothing is composed of parts of other clothes, linings, zippers or fixtures from many places with transparent assembly. “Margiela literally brings the secrets to the surface.”

Deconstruction is also a living critique of the fashion system. Decontructivist designers reveal fashion’s charms – ornament, glamour, spectacle, illusion, fantasy, and exclusion. Importantly however, the designer is not just not destoying. It is instead a simultaneous “forming and deforming, constructing and destroying, making and undoing clothes.” The design and anti-design are equally essential.

Yohji Yamamoto

Margiela S 2007 and Margiela jacket made of a Swiss Army bag 2006

viktor rolf spring2010

veliani jacket

Japan Fashion Now 2003

More information at:http://ezradaniel.me/2012/04/05/deconstruction-fashion-anti-fashion/

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